Bikaner and Jaipur

Polki refers to natural, uncut diamonds used in their raw, non-faceted state. Unlike modern brilliant-cut diamonds that are shaped by industrial tools, Polki retains the original "soul" and organic character of the stone exactly as it was mined from the earth.

Origin

Introduced to the Indian subcontinent by the Mughals, who valued the "watery" and "soft" lustre of raw stones over the aggressive sparkle of faceted gems. Bikaner and Jaipur in Rajasthan remain the global epicentres for high-end Polki craftsmanship. These cities house the generational karigars (artisans) who specialise in the delicate balance of setting raw stones without damaging their structural integrity. Historically, Polki represented a philosophy of "natural perfection." No two stones are identical in shape, thickness, or clarity, making every piece of Polki jewellery a singular anatomical study of the diamond. It was the primary medium for royal regalia, symbolising a connection to the earth's raw power.

Technique

Polki is a reflection-based gemstone, requiring a completely different engineering approach than modern jewellery.

The Daank (Silver Foil): Because raw diamonds do not have facets to bounce light internally, they are set on a bed of highly polished silver foil. This foil acts as a mirror, reflecting light back through the diamond to create its signature, soulful "glow."

The Jadau Process: The stones are set using the Kundan method. This involves the use of 24K pure gold foil, which is burnished at room temperature around the edges of the Polki stone. The gold undergoes molecular cold-bonding, merging with the frame to create a permanent, airtight seal.

Ghaat & Laakh: A framework (Ghaat) is first created, which is then filled with Laakh (natural resin). The Polki stones are embedded into the heated resin, providing a solid foundation before the final gold foil is applied.

While modern diamonds rely on refraction (light bending inside), Polki relies on reflection. This makes Polki appear "liquid" under candlelight, offering a subtle "quiet luxury" aesthetic that does not compete with the wearer, but rather enhances their natural light.

At Kanasi, we adapted this ancient engineering of reflection into a few curated jewelry pieces, capturing the raw, luminous spirit of the uncut diamond.